Monthly Archives: December 2009

Irish Eating at the Long Table

Posted on December 27, 2009 by | 2 Comments

Photo credit: Jules

While we’re on the subject of pubs, I’m well behind on writing about one of my favorites. Way back when I wrote about the Shebeen Whisk(e)y House but since then the Irish Heather et al. has  moved houses, acquired chef Lee Humphries and generally just upped the ante in terms of casual Gastown hangouts. They’ve also introduced the Long Table Series.

When the economy turns ugly, you pull yourself up by your bootstraps, call in your friends and sit down to a meal of good, hearty, simple food. Or something like that. But the trick is to find the deals without sacrificing quality. The Heather has always managed to straddle the gap between gourmet gastropub and authentic Irish fare without being expensive, but their new space included a room with a giant table in it that I thought might be for parties or overflow, but out of which the Long Table Series was born.

The idea is that one dish is made each day (although the hardworking kitchen still puts out the Heather’s regular menu for those on the pub side and offers a vegetarian option for the long table dinners as well) and comes with a pre-set beer or cider for $15. The menu is posted in advance, resos are made through email and on the appointed date diners pack in around the table to chow down on what just might be the best deal in the city.

Long table I’ve been twice for the roast suckling pig dinner (pictured top) – mouthwateringly tender with bits of satisfyingly crunchy crackling and mashed potatoes – a feast I can assure you I’ll be back for again. I’ve also had duck leg with colcannon potatoes and foie gras jus, braised short ribs, traditional Irish stew with soda bread (and Guinness of course) and a couple of others.

The food is delicious enough to take the table of 50 or so down to a dull roar, but half the fun is jostling elbows and chatting with your neighbours. Filing in from the Shebeen waiting room out back feels like the first day of school all over again – except with beer and no homework.

Irish Heather

The menu is published a month in advance but there are a couple more dates left for December, including a New Year’s Eve seating. Dinners have been sold out solidly since the summertime so if you want to get in on the popular dishes, it’s best to sign up soon.

Irish Heather on Urbanspoon
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Irish Heather
212 Carrall Street, Vancouver

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Pourhouse Potatoes (and Cocktails)

Posted on December 22, 2009 by | 1 Comment

pourhouse
Despite being there on opening night (and many nights since), it never really occurred to me to write about a relatively new favorite haunt of mine, Gastown’s Pourhouse, because let’s face it, a place redolent of cocktail culture and comfort food – as good as it is – wouldn’t normally garner much space on an ethnic food blog. But I did have biksemad there for the first time and as I’ve recently had it again, I wanted to share it with you.

Biksemad is basically a leftover Scandinavian hash, often made with fried eggs and bacon. Good for breakfast, the Pourhouse version made with potatoes, ham, pickled beet and quail’s egg is salty and hearty and also good very late at night when you’ve had one too many Gold Fashioneds.

cocktail

Since we’re on the subject, please allow me to comment briefly on the superb cocktail culture at work here. Manned by proprietor Jay Jones, formerly of Voya, the bar program at this beautiful space is booze-forward, balanced and happy-making. There are only six cocktails listed on the postcard-sized menu (of which the maple and bourbon Gold Fashioned is one), but talented barkeeps will make you pretty much anything you want, to your taste. I’ve not once been disappointed, but if you need some direction, they do amazing things with whiskey and make a mean Pisco sour.

And then after you’re done plying yourself with alcohol, get an order of biksemad (or a sloppy joe if that’s more your style) to soak it all up.

Pourhouse on Urbanspoon
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Pourhouse
162 Water Street, Vancouver.

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Spanish Snacks Come to Granville Street

Posted on December 13, 2009 by | 3 Comments

tapas

So much of Spanish culture appeals to me. When I read of Spaniards ducking into late night tapas joints for some pulpo or sardines on toast before heading home from a night of drinking, it makes the Granville Street options of cardboard-and-oil pizza or Tsui Hang specials even more unpalatable than they already are. Thankfully there’s a new kid on the block doing something different. Cafe Barcelona has just opened at 1049 Granville serving tapas and pintxos (Basque bar snacks) until midnight every day.

sardines on toast

I admit that there was some trepedation in entering the newly opened, sparsely decorated little shop, but one look at the chalk specials menu, covered over in boquerones (marinated anchovies) and stuffed mussels and it seemed we would not be led astray.

We had the patatas bravas,  a fried potato and tomato sauce dish guaranted to soak up the excess alcohol in your system, spicy sausage, sardines on toast and the aforementioned boquerones. I was enjoying the flavour and quality of the food so much that I even did something uncharacteristic of me and ate some of the marinated octopus without flinching.

The wine list is equally authentic and I picked a crisp white to wash down my food while my dining companions all sampled sherry.

I don’t spend much time out on Granville Street these days, but I’m already thinking of a reason to be back in the neighbourhood soon.

Cafe Barcelona on Urbanspoon
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Cafe Barcelona
1049 Granville Street, Vancouver

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