The last time I had dinner with my grandmother, we ended up at Denny’s on Davie, and I choked down whatever I ordered while staring longingly across the street at La Brasserie and imagining the beautiful bistro food being prepared. Surely someone was tucking into the simple elegance of steak frites, or nibbling delicately at a nicoise salad while I was not even entirely sure I was eating food.
I started with a Lillet, an aperitif like delicate liquid marmelade, while my friend ordered a Lillet d’ete. This is Lillet blanc mixed with homemade lemonade and thyme. True to its name, it tastes like sunshine and grass; summer in a glass.
We were unanimous in our decision to share the duck confit to start and fell upon it hungrily, the textures and tastes of the tangy frissee and succulent, soft duck.
Then our paths diverted a bit. La Brasserie is not a French bistro but a restaurant specializing in the cuisine of Alsace. So there is also suckling pig with schopfnudel on the menu, and other German delicacies. I stayed on the French side of the border with the 7 oz steak onglet and frites while my dining companion switched sides with an order of bratwurst. Simple food done well is both comforting and special and this was both. Swirling burgundy in my glass and looking out onto the street (in the vastly preferable direction) I had no complaints. You have to squint hard to pretend you’re not in Vancouver but the food is authentic and sometimes that’s enough to transport.
On Sunday, October 4 from 5 pm – 7 pm, La Brasserieis is having a 1-year anniversary party and Oktoberfest bash. They’ll have complimentary German beer and wine, as well as traditional Oktoberfest fare, including bratwurst and suckling pig sandwiches.
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La Brasserie
1091 Davie Street, Vancouver
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