Monthly Archives: August 2009

Havana is a Long Way from Cuba

Havana

I’ve reviewed Havana before, but I haven’t said much about the food.  Usually when I eat at Havana, it’s because I have to, either because I’ve drank so many mojitos that eating is imperative, or because someone else wants to go there. The food used to be good but it’s gone through so many fads and phases that it doesn’t seem very authentic anymore. That’s ok, they’ve got a beautiful decor, good service, great drinks and a fantastic patio, does it really matter if they’re not authentic? It hadn’t to me until I tried to order a medianoche sandwich. The last time I had one of these was in Calle Ocho in Miami and I was so enthralled by it that I ordered it without thinking, so grateful to have another taste of it. It’s supposed to have pork and ham on slightly sweet, spongy bread, which technically this one did, but it’s not anywhere near the sandwich of my dreams. It was so dried out and sad that I abandoned it for yam fries and beer.

Brunch is better, with omelettes and black beans and chorizo, but your best bet it a mojito.

Havana Cafe on Urbanspoon
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Havana
1212 Commercial Drive, Vancouver

Ethnic Eat Dine Out at Red Sea Cafe

injera and wats

Sharing food and communal dining is coming back into vogue, but in some corners of the world (or city!), it’s never gone out of style. Ethiopian cuisine, for example, is perfectly suited for gathering a group of people together to bond over food. There are no plates, cutlery or pretenses.

It’s also a cuisine that is still relatively off the radar for most people. While I have a friend who makes his own injera and several friends who are die-hard fans, I also get enough blank looks when I talk about Ethiopian food. For these reasons, I knew it would be perfect for the second Ethnic Eats dine out. A while back a group of us descended on Cafe Kathmandu for Nepalese food and since I love introducing people to new food and restaurants, I think this is going to be something of a regular event.

red sea cafe

Our group converged on the Red Sea Cafe at Broadway and Fraser. There aren’t many Ethiopian restaurants in Vancouver, and they are mostly concentrated around Broadway and Commercial Drive. I had sort of landed on Fassil as my favorite, but Raul kept raving about the Red Sea Cafe and I knew I had to try it.

We had two vegetarian combos that were different on each end of the table; yellow peas called alicha; red lentil birsin; creamed corn, okra in tomato sauce, stewed spinach, and cabbage, plus a couple of lamb and chicken dishes like doro wat – chicken in a spicy Berberie sauce – and yebeg tibs – spicy lamb stew. I would have liked it to be a little spicier, but the range of flavours was appreciated and the heat was perfect for a group outing.

In Ethiopian dining you get a plate of injera bread with the stews or wats on top and some extra injera on the side. To eat it, you rip off a piece of injera and wrap up some stew in it with your fingers. When you run out of extra bread, you can eat the bottom layer that now has all kinds of flavours soaked into it. Ethiopian always ends up being so filling and split between so many people, our dinner came to a whopping $12 per person.

The service was impeccable and everyone was so kind that it felt like we were invited over to someone’s house for dinner. I think I’ve been to all the Ethiopian places in Vancouver now, but I still have not experienced a coffee ceremony, so I’ll have to circle back around and see which of these does that best.

Where should we go for our next outing? I’m thinking it might be time for dim sum, or a good Indian dinner. Join the Facebook page for updates.

Red Sea Café on Urbanspoon
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Red Sea Cafe
670 East Broadway, Vancouver

A Night of Maenam

maenam bar
There’s not many things that will get me to Kits on a fireworks night. Certainly not the fireworks. But we had a reservation at Maenam that I was not about to pass up. My sister and I loved Gastropod and I had heard the word on the street that this was Thai food like no other in Vancouver, so we left early and fought hard for a parking spot. It was worth it.

We sat in the same table as we did on our last visit in it’s last incarnation as Gastropod and save for some bamboo and a stencil on the mirror, this is the same restaurant. That is, until the food hits the table. We ordered Siam sun ray cocktails, vodka and toasted coconut punctuated with lime, chili and ginger. Then fermented Thai sausage, a disappointing start. It was purported to have dragon chilis in it, but that is one tame dragon as it was about as flavourful as a hotdog stand special.

A minor setback, however, because it was followed up with one of the best pad thais I’ve ever had, roasted chili peppers on the side of fresh noodles and prawns. The taste of tamarind and heat was sensual almost and paved the way beautifully for the crispy pork belly with green peppercorns and Thai Basil. I’ve never had a dish like this, fragrant and flavourful, with tastes and textures colliding off the sides of my mouth and back into each other. I love pork belly on the best of days, but the greens and spices do something amazing to it and actually manage to balance the fat.

Finally, the smoked duck curry. The meat was a little bit chewy but the sweet and sour sauce was utterly drinkable – and I did. With egg and rice, it is a filling dish but the complex flavours mean that every bite is subtly different.

Dessert was a disappointing, sweet rice concoction that stuck to the sides of my mouth, but we were too full to enjoy it and I don’t have much of a sweet tooth anyways. I need to go back soon for the spicy-sour grilled hangar steak salad that I’ve been dreaming of – it sounds just about perfect on a hot day – and I’ve got the Muslim oxtail soup earmarked for when the weather gets colder. Also, that curry needs to be sampled about 20 more times.

pad thai
At $13-18 for a main, it’s become much more of an every-day place than Gastropod was and consequently it’s packed every day, including lots of take-out going out the door. But it’s worth it, even on fireworks night.

Maenam on Urbanspoon
This post was reprinted from Foodists.
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Maenam
1938 West 4th Avenue, Vancouver

A (Wonderful) Shanghai Adventure

yellow fish in red sauce
I like going on adventures, even if they are small adventures; the kind where maybe nothing overly exciting happens, but you go somewhere new and eat something new and have fun doing it. So a friend and I ended up in Richmond at Shanghai Wonderful a couple of weeks ago. He’d already been to Shanghai River and so we decided to do a little compare and contrast on the xiao long bao, soup dumplings. Anyone who knows me knows how much I love Shanghai soup dumplings and I even made a little video of how to eat them properly.

First you pick them up delicately from the steamer, so as not to rip the packet en route to your mouth. Then you tear a little hole in it and slurp out some of the juice before putting the whole dumpling in your mouth. Just tucking in without caution can result in you getting “soup” all over the place or burning your mouth. Consider yourself warned.

The XLB at Shanghai Wonderful were soupy and hot but could have done with some more attention in the flavour department as they were not very fragrant or flavourful.

smoked duck

I was informed that they weren’t as good as Shanghai River and in fact I don’t even think they’re as good as Lin’s, so it was a good thing that we also ordered an entire fish (yellow fish in red sauce which reminded me a little too much of Dr. Seuss) and half a duck. There were also noodles. Needless to say, there were a lot of leftovers.

I quite like unassuming Shanghai-style cafes that can pump out anything from 10 pages of menu and make it taste delicious and Shanghai Wonderful is one of the better ones. Next time I’ll bring even more people so we can order even more food. Groan.

Shanghai Wonderful Restaurant on Urbanspoon

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Shanghai Wonderful
8380 Lansdowne Road #110, Richmond

Mis Trucos Has Some Tricks Up Its Sleeve

seafood trio
The new kid on the Davie Village block is Mis Trucos, a Spanish-inspired tapas restaurant with a fantastic patio. They’re open for business as of last week, but when a group of bloggers were invited to road test the menu, the walls were still a minimalist white and the lack of a sign meant that I walked back and forth a couple of times in the place where I thought the address should be, wondering if I had to smack myself Harry Potter style into the wall to gain entrace. Turns out that it’s upstairs, and the patio where I will be spending many August evenings, is in the back, far (enough) from the maddening crowd.

I started off with a glass of wine while I was waiting for the rest of the party to find the stairs, but then quickly moved on to their signature Spanish cocktails. The first, cohombro o pepino, means “cool as a cucumber” and contains Hendricks gin, honey dew, cucumber, lime and sprite. It was sublte and the melon balanced out the cucumber in a pleasing way, but it’s not a groundbreaking leap away from a classic G&T.  There were familiarities elsewhere as well. The Barcelona (Plymouth gin, orange liquor, white wine, lemon, orange, elderflower and soda) was like a sort of boozy Orangina and the Spanish snapper (gin, lemon, red wine, tomato juice, spanish paprika, worcestershire sauce, parsley salt) is a Mis Trucos taste on a bloody Mary. All went down easy.

salad

Mis Trucos, “my tricks” in Spanish, comes from one of the chef’s favorite cookbooks that had a tips and tricks section and it suits. Food started with olives and bread for the table, followed by panko-breaded petrale sole with tartare sauce. This “fancy fish stick” would be a bit small for anything other than a snack or a side, but the flavours were balanced and it wasn’t greasy. Then came a salad of Serrano ham, asparagus, slow cooked egg, manchego cheese (above) and the trio of wild fish crudo (top), easily my two favorite dishes of the evening. The salad is a variation of one I’ve been making all summer because the salty cheese and ham paired with greens is heavenly and the addition of the soft egg is sheer genius. The seafood plate is a mini carousel of flavours; scallop ceviche topped with radish and parsley with lemon pepper salt, Spring salmon with grapefruit and truffle oil, ling cod with apple and celery. Perfect patio munching.

Prices range from $8 – 13 and the portions are not large but the ingredients are fresh and I have no doubt that the menu will only get better with time.

UPDATE – August 13th: They’re not quite open yet, but check back with them soon, or follow them on twitter at @mistrucos for updates.

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Mis Trucos
1141 Davie Street, Vancouver