Ethnic Eats – Sampling the World’s Cuisine Without Leaving Vancouver

Comforting Congee Noodle House

July 9, 2009 · Leave a Comment

congee
The menu reads, “the benefits of eating congee are irrefutable” and sitting in the busy restaurant listening to the din of happy diners competing with the low throb of my hangover, I prayed that that would prove true.

Congee is a sort of Asian hot rice soup, very similar to cream of wheat or porridge, that is often filled with meats or fish. I’ve heard that it’s an acquired taste, but raised on cream of wheat and porridge with sausage and other savories in it, I take to it naturally and seek it out whenever I need some comfort.

The house special congee, an easy favorite, is a bowl of creamy rice broth with toasted peanuts and green onion on top and filled with huge prawns, mushooms and pieces of fish, squid, and scallops. For $7 you are practically guaranteed to be full and also so warm and taken care of after. If you live nearby, you might want to go home for a nap. As it was, I think I nodded off a bit on the bus.

Some day I’d like to try the more exotic congees on offer; ostrich meat congee, and Chinese parsley and sea bass congee but I wasn’t about to risk my hangover on something exotic. The house special fixed me up just fine.

Congee Noodle House on Urbanspoon
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Congee Noodle House
141 East Broadway, Vancouver

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Return to Irashai

June 25, 2009 · 1 Comment

scallop sashimi

Last week found me back at the Irashai Grill where I was invited to sample some of the dishes I missed at the open house. While introductions were being made, I sipped on a lychee whisky sour. Whisky is making its way into more and more cocktails after a long hiatus and while not all of them are good, this is one I would go back for. It straddled the balance between two of my favorite flavours without being neither too sweet or too strong.

Keeping in the style of simplicity = awesomeness, next came some mouth-watering hotate (scallop) sashimi on a bed of kiwi and greens. The sweet tang of the kiwi and citrus dressing on the seafood was exquisite. There there was red tuna tataki with mayo and dark miso sauce, lobster tail tempura with lime and smoked sea salt that was so good I had trouble leaving the rest of the salt on my plate after the lobster tail was gone. I’m not a big fan of tempura usually. There’s something about the grease and the texture that doesn’t do it for me, but apparently a squeeze of lime and some sea salt changes everything.

lobster tail

Sable Fish with Yuan (sake) Sauce was another favorite, followed by a spread of imaginative and artful sushi (from left to right in the photo below):

  • White Slope Roll: crab and avocado topped with chopped scallop and spicy sauce.
  • Black Eel Roll: mango, avocado and cucumber topped with avocado and eel tempura.
  • Alaskan Crab Leg Roll: Alaskan king crab, mango, and masago fried slightly to give it a bit of a crust. Served with lemon mayo.
  • Summer Roll: prawn tempura, masago, and cucumber topped with spicy tuna and avocado. Drizzled with spicy mayo and sweet soya sauce.
  • Umeboshi maki (not shown) at the request of Raul.

sushi

Macha crème brûlée finished us off.

Taking a look at their online menu, you can see that there’s a lot going on here. Raw bar, grill, dessert, sushi, etc. They’ve even got an omakase menu. Sushi ranges from the traditional to the eyebrow raising – like the Poison Spider Volcano made hot with melted cheese – all aesthetically prepared.

On my first visit, it seemed as though this spot suffered from a lack of foot traffic, but it was easy enough to find with the crowd of people out front. Returning on a Monday night, the ‘blink and you’ll miss it aspect’ was even more obvious. There are a lot of residential buildings in the area but a busy street and an instantly forgettable storefront do nothing to lure people in. And what a shame that is, because with a chef trained in French and Italian cooking (as well as Japanese) and a menu straddling the balance between innovative and traditional dishes, it’s well worth a visit. The grilled lunch combinations - from grilled sablefish to deep-fried tonkatsu - promise to be an excellent deal and if I’m ever in the area for lunch I’ll be sure to stop in and try it.

Irashai Grill on Urbanspoon

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Irashai Grill
1368 West Pender Street, Vancouver

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Best of the Drive

June 16, 2009 · 5 Comments

Prado
I recently moved away from Commercial Drive, which is pretty much a foodist’s heaven with its plethora of food shops, eateries and watering holes. These are the things I miss most.

10 best of the Drive:

1. Sausages and whisky at Falconetti’s, a dark, cavey little bar that is also open to the street. Excellent handmade sausages and fries accompany a decent bar selection and good people pouring. 1812 Commercial Drive.
2. Old-school Italian at Arriva Ristorante. The Drive was the original Little Italy and eventhough it’s much more diverse now, this is still the place for authentic carbonara or bucca alla amatriciana. 1537 Commercial Drive.
3. The Ravioli Store for fresh made pasta and Italian prosciutto. 1900 Commercial Drive.
4. South China Seas for spices, hard to find ethnic ingredients and cookbooks. 1904 Grant Street (at Victoria Drive).
5. Coffee from Calabria, Bump & Grind, Prado and Continental. No, sorry, I’m not picking one. They’re all favorites for different reasons; Calabria for making me laugh with its utter cheesiness – 1745 Commercial Drive, Bump & Grind for it’s bohemian furniture and comfy atmosphere – 916 Commercial Drive, Prado for its sleek minimalist decor – 1938 Commercial Drive, and Continental for the smell of roast beans and the undercurrent of revolution – 1806 Commercial Drive.
6. La Grotta del Formaggio for cheese and sandwiches. 1791 Commercial Drive.
7. Tandoori Palace, which is as close as I can get to having a regular haunt. I’ve only ever had their channa masala, but I’ve had it a LOT. Comfort food. 1439 Commercial Drive.
8. Bacon from JN&Z Deli. Enough said.
9. Havana. The food can be hit or miss but the deck, the décor and the pitchers of mojitos will sway you always. 1212 Commercial Drive.
10. Mediterranean Specialty Foods for amazing fresh hummus, spanikopitas, olives and assorted other Greek delicacies. 1824 Commercial Drive.

Not to mention the many fresh produce markets, bakeries and little ethnic eateries lined up for blocks. I’m looking forward to checking out my new neighbourhood, but I have a sneaking suspicion I’ll still be making some trips back to the Drive.

What are your favorites?

→ 5 CommentsCategories: Greek · Happy Hour · Indian · Italian

New India Buffet Disappoints

June 12, 2009 · Leave a Comment

New India buffet
My sense of smell has been betraying me lately. Last week I bought some nectarines that filled the grocery store -and then my kitchen – with the most amazingly tempting smell of ripe fruit and then dismayed me utterly by tasting like wet cardboard. Lunch today was a much greater offense, however. Walking down Broadway I caught a whiff of complex curry smells and tracked them into an Indian buffet in an office building. I was surprised to find myself in a forgotten restaurant that my mom and I used to frequent. It was an Irish restaurant, I was reminded, after seeing the still-present plaid carpet and high-backed wood booths.

I was excited by my find, and bolstered by both the $5 price tag and my recent Saravanaa-Bhavan buffet success, but the fare was incredibly mediocre. The dried-out naan was no match for the thin, runny sauces and rather than being complex and wonderful as the smell suggested, they were flat and flavourless punctuated with chilis. I tried the butter chicken, channa masala, dahl, mater paneer, and declared that for $5 they were at least all edible. Then I tried the soy chunks in curry that were too rubbery to count as food. I should have stopped there but they had kheer for dessert and kheer is on my list of things to try! I get very excited about trying new things, except I think – unless kheer is meany to be a slop of white gluey paste that explodes in your mouth like vineagar hitting baking soda and then sticks there – that I will have to leave it on the list to be tried again elsewhere

New India Buffet on Urbanspoon
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New India Buffet
805 West Broadway, Vancouver

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Fill Up Frugally at Saravanaa Bhavan

June 10, 2009 · 1 Comment

buffet plate

Eating out can be a luxury in a down economy, but it doesn’t have to be. Saravanaa Bhavan’s vegetarian restaurant serves up some of the most authentic Indian food that I’ve had in a while and has a $10 lunch buffet (on weekdays) that can’t be beat.

If you’re willing to forgo the butter chicken, you can load up on all the channa masala and dahl and vegetarian curries your straining waistline can handle. Plus the sauces; various chutneys and raita. Plus the starches; chappathi, pappadum, and naan are all on offer and a server brings freshly made dosas by at regular intervals. So much food! I thought I was going to have to have a nap after lunch.

A couple of things I hadn’t tried before were the lentil doughnuts, sambar vada, and rava kesari which is roasted cream of wheat, sweetened with honey and coloured orange.  A bit of a surprise, to be sure, but must have been good because I went back for seconds.

Saravanaa Bhavan on Urbanspoon

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Saravanaa Bhavan
955 West Broadway, Vancouver

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Beat the Heat at the Reef

June 4, 2009 · 1 Comment

Jerk chicken roti

There’s something to be said about having a beer in the sun after some hard work and even tho it only took me a couple of hours to pack up my apartment, I fully intended to call in that reward.

I headed to The Reef on Commercial Drive which I have managed to never visit yet, despite living not far from it and having eaten at the Main Street location several times.

Dragon Stout was dark and brooding and not really fitting my sunshiny mood, so after I got my food I switched to a party-in-a-glass umbrella drink. The Irie Shaker has cinnamon, nutmeg, coconut and the requisite umbrella garnish which had me kicking back in no time.

I ordered the Jerk Chicken roti ($10) which is pretty spicy on its own. Even more so when it’s doused liberally with Miss Kitty hot sauce. The flatbread, jerk chicken and coleslaw is pretty traditionally Caribbean, but if you want something more exotic, Jamaican favorites jerk goat and Jamaican’s national dish – akee fruit and salt cod – are also available. I’ve had both at the other location and while there are more authentic Caribbean restaurants around, you can’t argue with a patio and a drink with an umbrella in it.

The Reef on Urbanspoon
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The Reef

1018 Commercial Drive, Vancouver

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Tenku Bakudanyaki Roadtrip

June 3, 2009 · 3 Comments

tenku takeout

There has been much hype on the interwebs (and @BAKUDANYAKI on twitter) about a little van out in Richmond serving up bakudanyaki, a Japanese fritter filled with octopus, squid, cabbage, mochi, egg and sausage. Tenku Bakudanyaki is doing a roaring trade in these fried snacks and there were a number of people hanging out in the parking lot when we got there, some reading or playing catch while they waited for their orders.

Although I couldn’t bring myself to eat the more tentacly parts of the octopus and I never did see any sausage, this was still a pretty filling and decently delicious snack for only $5.

bakudanyaki

The trouble is, for me, that it’s out in Richmond. A Vancouverite without a car, I get out to our ethnic-eating treasure of a suburb much less frequently than I would like. But I got a map and found the parking lot this van is parked in (don’t worry, there are signs) and placed our orders. My friend and I both had the special, norimiso (seaweed and miso), but it’s available in original, curry, wasabi, chilli, pizza and mustard flavours.

I’ll be back. I’d like to try a couple more flavours. I just wish they’d drive their van into Vancouver once in a while.

Tenku Bakudanyaki on Urbanspoon
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Tenku Bakudanyaki

7100 Elmbridge Way, Richmond

→ 3 CommentsCategories: Asian · Japanese

Irashai Open House

June 1, 2009 · 2 Comments

Irashai Open House

Sadly, I missed the blogger’s lunch,  but I stopped in to check out the open house at the Irashai Grill last week. I had mistakenly thought it was a new restaurant, but apparently it’s been open for a year or so and not getting the traffic they would like, so an open house seemed like a good way to meet the neighbours, so to speak.

And they have a lot of neighbours! The place was packed when I got there and as I lined up for the sake tasting I surveyed the rest of the scene. They had taken out a lot of the tables to make room for standing-room only mingling and most of the mingling was happening over by the kitchen. No big surprise.

I sampled the 3 sakes, grabbed a beer and headed over to the space near the kitchen where Darren and watched the feeding frenzy that happened every time a new dish was brought out.

feeding frenzy

Madness! People were grabbing at rolls with chopsticks from across the table and picking up handfuls of takoyaki. I was kind of terrified, to be honest, but Danielle stepped in and made sure we sampled some sashimi, tempura and a few other things. They were good, but the experience was so not indicative of what a normal dining experience would be that I’ll have to go back and check it out again. I’ve heard good things though, so I’ll put it on the list.

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Irashai Grill

1368 West Pender Street, Vancouver

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Best Sushi on Commercial Drive

May 27, 2009 · 3 Comments

ginger-sushi

It used to be that I just wouldn’t eat sushi on the Drive. None of the somewhat grungy places looked promising and there are just so many better places for sushi in the city that it didn’t seem worth trying. But my empty cupboards eventually got the best of me and I set out to see how bad it really was.

I have a pretty strong stomach, so I wasn’t worried, but to avoid disappointment and give these east side joints the best possible chance, I tried not to order anything too obscure and chose much more cooked sushi than usual. In most cases, I picked the chopped scallop cone (my favorite) when it was available and then went standard issue on the rest; California rolls and yam rolls, etc.

The following is a list of all the sushi places on the Drive, given a 10 point rating.

britannia-sushi

1. First up was Britannia Sushi at 1016 Commercial Drive, because it’s a favorite of my roommate’s.  Under their red awning, Commercial Drive denizens pack into the vinyl benches. It’s been busy every time I’ve been there and with the friendly, fast service and good prices, why not?

I ordered a chopped scallop cone ($3.85),  one of their special Dynamite Dragon rolls ($8.95) which is a regular dynamite roll with  BBQ eel and avocado, and a White Dragon roll ($5.95) with spicy tuna and onion topped with tuna.  The avocado in the White Dragon roll was a little bit mushy and soggy from the BBQ sauce, but otherwise both rolls were preety good. The fish was fresh and kudos for the creativity of the combinations.

On a subsequent visit I had a yam tempura roll and a California roll to round up out the research and both were quite tasty. The avocado was not as mushy without the sauce and both rolls held their flavour well.

Britannia: 7 out of 10. I’d go back.

2. The next attempt was at Isshin Sushi (1861 Commercial), where I had a chopped scallop cone, a yam tempura roll and a California roll. The sushi was generous; big chunks of scallops in the scallop cone (some even fell out when I tried to dip it), large California rolls and huge yam tempura rolls that came to the table still warm and very flavourful. Everything was a little on the bland side, however, and the wasabi serving was not nearly enough.

The service was a little slow. Considering I was likely waiting for the yam tempura to be
made fresh, I tried not to hold it against them, but it didn’t really pick up after that either. As long as your expectations are in order, you won’t be too disappointed.

Isshin Sushi is 6 out of 10. I might go back.

sushi

3. Ginger Sushi was dark and seemed awfully dodgy on first impression. There was a noisy fan whirring away in the background and a greasy chef that didn’t exactly inspire confidence. A note on the wall about excellent “sushi” was cause for a wry smile and some mild alarm but then tea and sushi arrived – standard order chopped scallop cone ($3.20), deep fried yam roll ($2.20), and a California roll ($2.95) – and I was placated a bit.

The tea was served in a styrafoam cup and the sushi was not very tightly rolled, but they did give me a generous dollop of wasabi, and the sushi was tasty enough. It’s the atmosphere that does this place in. Plastic chairs and layers of grime make take-out a better option, but I’m not going to be back. It’s at 1437 Commercial Drive if you want to check it out.

Ginger Sushi is a 5 out of 10. Not returning.

4. Sake Maki was probably my favorite of the bunch. At 1414 Commerical Drive, it’s taken over the space where Mekong used to be. The walls have been painted over with a calming blue mural, Mt. Fuji in the background and cherry blossoms blowing around. In the summer, the windows open to the street for some great people-watching. It has the nicest atmosphere of any of the Japanese restaurants on the Drive (Lime excepted) and the sushi is also above par.

The fish looked fresh and the kitchen clean, so I had the Pink Lady, a spicy ebi roll with tuna on top ($7.95) and the Vancouver roll, which is a California roll with salmon ($7.95). I also had a chopped scallop cone ($3.75) to have something to compare with the others on this list. All were tasty and the servings were enormous, although could have possibly done with a less mayo.

The service was decently fast the couple of times I’ve been there and while it was not overly friendly, it was efficient.

Sake Maki is 8 out of 10. I will definitely eat there again.

asiano-sushi

5. Asiano Sushi, at 1179 Commercial, is another decent sushi restaurant on the Drive. The place was empty when I arrived, but even so, I felt like I was being rushed to order and leave. Service was fast, but certainly lacking.

When I got to the food, however, it was pretty good. I had the Sushi combo B (2 tuna, 2 salmon, california roll for $6.99), and a chopped scallop cone ($3.95). There wasn’t enough wasabi, and the fish could have been fresher, but it was pretty good.

Asiano Sushi gets 7 out of 10. I might go back.

6. Sushi King is pretty mediocre. It’s got the plastic, temporary, take-out atmosphere down pat. You order from a counter and then sit down instead of getting table service, there is a space heater in the middle of the floor, and the requisite old, discoloured photos of fish on the wall. But there were smiles all around and that was appreciated even after I had to repeat my order some 3 times.

I had a California roll ($3.30), a chopped scallop with tobiko roll ($3.50) and a negitoro roll ($2.75). They tasted ok, but didn’t look the slightest bit fresh, having a bit of a uniform grey colour to both the scallops and the tuna. My roommate had the yam roll and reported it delicious. It did look good – certainly better than my greyish fish – with large colourful chunks of yam.

Sushi King is at 1431 Commercial and gets a 6 out of 10. I won’t return.

*Lime, a relatively new arrival at 1130 Commercial Drive, is definitely a 10 out of 10, but rather than a grab-and-go sushi joint, it’s an upscale Japanese restaurant with a modern twist on Asian classics. It’s really not fair to compare with the other restaurants on this list, so I’ve reviewed it over at Foodists.

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Bubble Tea Week Results

May 24, 2009 · 1 Comment

bubble tea straws
OK, after drinking a week’s worth of bubble tea, this is what I think:

Dragon Ball

Drink: Fresh lychee milk tea with pearls and coconut jelly

Cost: $6

Stars: 3/5

Comments: good tea, bad service, bad atmosphere and very expensive. Read the review: Dragon Ball

Little Sweetea House

Drink: Fresh lychee tea with pearls and slush

Cost: $3.50

Stars: 3.5/5

Comments: pretty good tea, nice place and very friendly service. Read the review: Little Sweetea House

Bubble Hut

Drink: Lychee slush with pearls and slush

Cost: $3.50

Stars: 3.5/5

Comments: great tea, nice space, ok service. Read the review: Bubble Hut

OCHI

Drink: Lychee black tea with pearls

Cost: $3.71

Stars: 4.5/5

Comments: great tea, good service, ok space. Read the review: OCHI

Time for Tea

Drink: Lychee black tea with pearls

Cost: $3.75

Stars: 2.5/5

Comments: mediocre tea, friendly service, ok atmosphere. Read the review: Time for Tea

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